more adventures in Samiland: Part 2

I saw “Kautokeino,” my destination in Northern Norway, on a movie poster in Alta. I asked if the movie was playing, but was tolmorning in Gouvdegaidnu (Kautokeino)d I had just missed the premier. What was it about, I asked? A revolt by the Saami a long time ago. Against who? They didn’t know.

It’s a 2-hour ride south of Alta along a meandering road that heads up from the gentle fjords and 10 meter high spruce over the mountains, and then down into the rolling tundra and valley of Gouvdaigaidnu (Kautokeino in Norwegian) – the “heart of Sapmi – the Saami homeland.” The next morning, it is light enough at breakfast to look down from the hilltop hotel over a sprawling village of about 3,000 people. We’re told that “90% of the people are Saami.” After telling someone thank you in Norwegian, I’m advised to learn the Saami phrase instead. I can take a hint.

During lunch hour and a quick walkabout, I discover a coop, bank, craft workshop, community centre, and a cafe that grinds beans and for excellent cappucino. In a lot of ways, it reminds me of Whitehorse with its curious mix of harsh north and gentle south. I find an English book on the windowsill, nurse my coffee, and read about the troubled Saami history. a siida, or reindeer herding camp

The Saami have lived as a distinct Indigenous people in this part of the world for more than 10,000 years with all that implies: territory and boundaries, system of governance, laws, religious beliefs and ceremonies, language, culture, self-sustaining economies – thanks in many ways to their brother, the reindeer. With time and southern encroachment, various foreign potentates tried to exert their will over the Saami, demanding taxes and increasingly exploiting the land and its peoples. Eventually, present-day Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia (Kola Peninsula) draw their own boundaries over Samiland. As a Mohawk, I read with increasing interest and understanding.

In 1852, Saami are fed up with traders plying a mixture of booze, religion and racism to exploit the Saami, driving many herders into poverty in yet another parallel to history in Canada. But the Saami rebel at Gouvdaigaidnu. The rebellion is put down, heads roll – literally, but the flame of Saami nation hood are rekindled.

Saami national flagThey’ve never sold or surrendered their independence despite foreign wars that have seen the Swedes, Russians and Germans pass through as conquering armies, heading for the hills with their reindeer until such calamities pass. A few years ago, I heard of a Saami man who had lost a hand in a explosion. He was trying to stop Norway from damming a river. He had been accorded sanctuary and safe passage through Mohawk territories, passed along from nation to nation across Canada. I mentioned this story and find that this man was real, and I am introduced to his niece.

More on this later: Karasjok, the capital of Samiland.

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2 Comments

Filed under Indigenous rights, journalism, travel

2 responses to “more adventures in Samiland: Part 2

  1. Dave Young

    Sago – your blog is very interesting!! I am a Sami-Lunape (Delaware) living near Tyendinaga Mohawk Territory in Ontario. I have been trying to learn about my Sami heritage and would like to know more about this man you are talking about who wsa given sanctuary by the Mohawks. Where does he live do you know how I can contact him? Nia:wen

  2. Shmohawk

    I am in southern Quebec. I remembered the story and was amazed when I ran into this man’s relative in Karasjok. She works at Saami TV as a new journalist there. She told me his name, but it was late and I don’t remember it. This is what I do remember:

    He lost a hand in an explosion, trying stall or stop a hydro dam on Saami territory that would have ruined the river, affected the reindeer, changed Saami lives for the worse with the benefits going to Norwegians. Sound familiar?

    He crossed our Mohawk territories and was passed along until he ended up in B.C. Bella Coola maybe? Canadian authorities finally caught up with him and deported him. A few years later, he came back — at the invite of the Canadian government since he was then a well-known and much respected cultural figure. He lives in his village, somewhere north of Karasjok.

    I lived in Tyendinaga for a year, until I started travelling again in March ’08. I would try to contact the Saami Parliament at: samediggi@samediggi.no

    One of the Members of the Saami Parliament spent time in Kahnawake at the radio station and would be able to put you in touch with this man. Good luck.

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